Vulcano is the German spelling. Quite a mix of grapes, here: Blaufrankisch, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zweigelt and Merlot. One of Austria’s top red winemakers, Hans Igler revels in the power of this wine, taming it with smooth tannins, new wood and rich density. The one downside is that it needs to be drunk fast, falling apart in the bottle after 30 minutes.——R.V.(10/1/2007)—— 90