This luscious Pinot shows the appellation’s ability to perfectly ripen the fruit while maintaining complete balance. The flavors are of cherries, raspberries, currants and cola, with nuances of licorice and gingerbread, yet for all that the finish is totally dry. So powerful is the wine in itself that it easily shoulders the 100% new French oak, which pushes the richness into a smoky, ne plus ultra territory. As for the mouthfeel, it’s silky, racy, voluptuous and delicate at the same time, the hallmarks of the very finest California Pinot Noirs.——S.H.(12/15/2007)—— 96