The 2014 Barbera d'Alba Santo Stefano di Perno does not soar to the same heights as past vintages. The bouquet shows a distant hint of volatile acidity that could worsen with time. It's no secret this was one of the most difficult vintages these past ten years in the Langhe. Results vary widely across the territory. This one-hectare vineyard seems to have suffered more and the wine is a bit thinner and more reticent as a result. Barbera is normally a very expressive grape, but its voice is muted here.

A whiff of acetone starts this off, followed by cherry, chocolate, wild herb and tobacco flavors. Rich and broad, with intensity and wild notes. Finishes long and satisfying. Needs air, but this is a terrific, old-school Barbera. Drink now through 2018. 358 cases made.??–BS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barbera d'Alba Select to Add

The 2008 Barbera d’Alba Superiore Santo Stefano di Perno impresses for its length and pure textural silkiness. Sweet red berries, tobacco, incense and dried flowers are all woven together in a fabric of beauty and class. Sweet floral notes add lift on the feminine, gracious finish. This is another delicious Barbera from the Mascarello family. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Mauro Mascarello’s 2008 Baroli have closed down considerably since I tasted them from cask in November, 2011. The 2008s were just bottled a few months ago. I expect they will be more expressive in another 6-12 months. Overall, the 2008s are mid-weight wines built on grace and perfume. I don’t see the pure power of 2006 nor the opulence of 2007, to name two recent vintages, but wines that are built more along the lines of 2005. I expect the 2008s will age on their acidity rather than fruit, but these wines always have a way of transforming in bottle, so we will see. There is little doubt Nebbiolo did better here than Barbera in 2008, as was true throughout Piemonte. The 2008 Barberas are good, but average, or perhaps slightly better than that within the context of the estate’s long, established history. Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

Exotic, with hints of toast and Asian spices complementing the blackberry fruit flavors. Rich and concentrated, with terrific harmony and a long, fresh finish. Drink now through 2018. 330 cases made.??–BS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barbera d'Alba Select to Add

The 2007 Barbera d’Alba Santo Stefano di Perno opens with an intoxicating, heady bouquet of smoke, tar, grilled herbs and dried flowers. Black cherries, plums and pomegranate follow in this juicy, seductive, totally expressive Barbera. The wine shows striking depth and purity while never coming across as heavy. This is as head-turning and sexy a Barbera as was made in 2007. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. This is a stellar showing from Mauro and Giuseppe Mascarello. The 2007 Baroli are stunning now that they are in bottle, but the Barberas are equally worthy of attention. As always, the style is very traditional, but in 2007 the steady warmth of the vintage has given the wines an extra dimension of fleshiness. The 2007 Monprivato in particular is shaping up to be another legendary Barolo from Mascarello. Importers: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484