The 2004 Barbera d’ Alba Valbianchera is a richly concentrated yet taut Barbera packed with sweet ripe fruit, smoke and tar that is supported by a persistent underlying vein of minerality. This top-notch Barbera will be even better in another few months once it has settled down a bit further. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2010. Almondo is one of my favorite producers in Roero. In particular, his Arneis Bricco delle Ciliegie and Roero Bric Valdiana are typically among the finest wines in the region. Importer: Vin Divino, Ltd., Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

The 2001 Barbera d’Alba Val Bianchera, dark in color with expansive notes of violets, chocolate, and oak spices, is ample and warm on the palate, with significant volume and a fresh, vigorous, mineral close. Drink: 2004-2008. Importer: Seth Allen, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

Dense and concentrated as well as structured, with chalky roughness in the finish is the 1998 Barbera d'Alba Bianchera. It should be drunk over the next 3-4 years. Importer: Seth Allen, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700