All of the hallmarks of a good Bordeaux blend are here—earthy, wooded spice, rich fruit flavors, a hearty character. The wine is elegant and assertive, but a slight red berry tartness, oak sweetness and heat throw its balance off just slightly. The overall impression, though, is good. Pair with beef stew or grilled lamb for a real treat.——S.K.(5/1/2008)—— 86