Here’s a big, impressive Chardonnay. It’s massive in new oak, offering waves of vanilla, buttered toast and caramelized flavors. Yet the underlying pineapple, pear and tropical fruit flavors are big enough to easily support that elaborate coating. Thoroughly delicious and compelling, a wine to drink now and through 2013.——S.H.(12/31/2009)—— 94

The vineyard is owned by the Farrells, and is located in the Green Valley, the coolest section of Russian River. The wine is very bright in acidity and clean and clear in minerals, with notes of tart lemondrop, brioche and Asian pear. Lees add a distinct taste of yeast and a rich, creamy texture. Perfect with cracked crab.——S.H.(7/1/2008)—— 90