A hint of gold can be seen in the color of the spice-scented 2001 Chassagne-Montrachet La Maltroie. Medium-bodied, lush, and leesy, it coats the palate with cookie dough and buttered white fruit flavors. Ample, suave, plump, and rich, it has a fabulously soft mouth-feel and outstanding flavor intensity. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. Importer: David Hinkle / Peter Vezan, North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (800) 266-6585

Smoky minerals and hints of oak can be discerned in the aromas of the 1999 Chassagne-Montrachet La Maltroie Cuvee Unique. This rich, lush, oily-textured, and medium-bodied wine is filled with toasty oak, stone, and mineral flavors that last throughout its pure finish. It is well-concentrated, rich, and harmonious. Projected maturity: now-2006. Importer: David Hinkle / Peter Vezan, North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (800) 266-6585.