Francois Pinon Vouvray Silex Noir, Loire, France

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：2448

Representing only the second installment of this cuvee, Pinon’s 2008 Vouvray Silex Noir – an inaugural cuvee solely from flint-rich soils – shares its Cuvee Tradition sibling’s judiciously-judged sweetness, but offers additional complexity and refreshment. Musk, quince, pineapple, passion fruit, lime, and a hint of sweat fill the nose as well as a bright, salt-, chalk- lanolin-, and quinine- tinged palate. Quite densely compact yet succulent, this harbors an animal element that surprises you in the finish like coming upon the scent of wild game recently passed. It should be fascinating to follow for at least the better part of a decade. And what an excellent value this much intrigue represents for its price!Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191

Francois Pinon’s 2007 Vouvray Silex Noir – an inaugural cuvee solely from flint-rich soils – shares with his “Cuvee Tradition” (this year solely from classic Loire tuffeau chalk) its subtly integrated sweetness, sheer density, and overall bitter-sweet cast. I find the briny, faintly acrid nose here almost off-putting though others may interpret this as positive complexity, and there is also a slight reductive aura of wet wool hanging over the glass even after a thorough shaking. All of that said, the sense of mineral concentration conveyed by this Chenin; its buddleia-like inner-mouth florality; and the sheer tenacity of its alkaline, bitter-sweet quince and citrus zest finish are certainly impressive.Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191