Francois Pinon’s 2007 Vouvray Silex Noir – an inaugural cuvee solely from flint-rich soils – shares with his “Cuvee Tradition” (this year solely from classic Loire tuffeau chalk) its subtly integrated sweetness, sheer density, and overall bitter-sweet cast. I find the briny, faintly acrid nose here almost off-putting though others may interpret this as positive complexity, and there is also a slight reductive aura of wet wool hanging over the glass even after a thorough shaking. All of that said, the sense of mineral concentration conveyed by this Chenin; its buddleia-like inner-mouth florality; and the sheer tenacity of its alkaline, bitter-sweet quince and citrus zest finish are certainly impressive.Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191