The intro-level cuvee now bottled by J. F. Lurton from their Chateau des Erles, their 2009 Fitou Cuvee des Ardoises is informed by young Syrah and middle-aged Grenache and Carignan, and matured in barriques, one-third new. Concentrated scents and flavors of blackberry and mulberry are subtly tinged with vanilla and resin and mingled with a soy-like salinity and savor that compliments the fresh berry juiciness of the finish. Hints of crushed stone and fruit pit add a slightly somber note and a tart berry edge - especially welcome in this torrid vintage - an extra measure of invigoration. In contrast with what I experienced in the Lurtons' Roussillon wines (see under Mas Janeil in the accompanying report in this issue), the wood here is well-integrated and engenders little drying, although only time in bottle will demonstrate whether the fine-grained but quite evident tannin that's present here serves any end. My intuition is to plan on drinking this over the next 3-4 years. Imported by Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Cambridge, MA; tel. (617) 876-5105

While the Lurtons report having waited 18 days longer than usual in order to harvest their 2008 Fitou Cuvee des Ardoises in ripe condition, the nose here evinces an artichoke-like green note along with its scents of blackberry and mulberry, and those elements follow on a palate more marked by its tannins and by bitterness from fruit pit and herbs than is the corresponding 2009. A tart tang in the finish, though, serves for a bit of welcome finishing stimulation. I would be inclined to drink this over the next year or two. Imported by Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Cambridge, MA; tel. (617) 876-5105