The 2010 Quater Rosso is a Sicilian bonanza, especially if you are into the island’s indigenous grapes. The blend is 55% Nero d’Avola, 15% Perricone, 15% Frappato and 15% Nerello Cappuccio. The oak tones are dominant but a Sicilian personality does emerge with bold layers of black cherry, spice, olive and roasted rosemary sprig. Despite its hefty mouthfeel, Quarter shows medium length and persistency but the elegance of the vintage comes through nicely. Drink 2015-2020. The ultimate Sicilian power couple, Salvatore Di Gaetano and the ever-alluring Vinzia Novara are the brains, brawn and beauty behind one of Sicily’s most successful, but highly individualistic brands. Firriato has always marched to its own drum. They are part of the first wave of bigger companies to invest on Etna, and they are the first to make wine on the arid island of Favignana off the Trapani coastline. The Firriato winemaking style is, to my mind, the most oak-forward and “international” in Sicily today. Importer: Soilair Selection, www.soilairselection.com

The 2007 Quater Rosso is Nero d'Avola, Perricone, Frappato and Nerello Cappuccio. Silky tannins frame expressive red fruit in this perfumed, elegant red. It is a beautiful wine to drink while the fruit is warm, open and radiant. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. This is another strong set of wines from Firriato. The estate first came to attention for their bold, internationally styled wines, but over the last two years I have found the wines from the Etna the most interesting. Importer: Soilair Selection, New York, NY; tel. (646) 244-4922

The 2006 Quater Rosso is a blend of Nero d’Avola, Perricone, Frappato and Nerello Cappuccio, all indigenous red varieties. The wine reveals an attractive vibrancy to its dark fruit, with excellent clarity and textural finesse. As good as this is, the blend of varieties has resulted in wine that has lost a sense of identity. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. I have to say I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted from Firriato this year. Across the board this is a very solid line-up, which is particularly impressive considering the estate’s production is now nearly 5 million bottles per year spread across numerous properties in Sicily. Firriato is among the new entrants in the Etna, and those wines are among the highlights.Importer: Soilair Selection, New York, NY; tel. (646) 244-4922