The 2007 Syrah American Tradition Reserve is a sexy, open-knit, opulent style of Syrah with a plum/garnet color, and a sweet perfume of bacon fat, black cherries, and black currants. Deep, round, pure, and fleshy, this evolved Syrah is meant to be drunk in its first 2-4 years of life. It was with considerable regret that I learned of the passing of Fess Parker this year. I knew him well, and have extraordinarily fond memories of the many discussions we had – always totally unrelated to wine. Fess was a hero for just about everyone of my generation. His starring role in Walt Disney’s Legend of Davy Crockett, and later as Daniel Boone rocketed him to superstardom in the 1950s and 1960s. But Hollywood was not Fess’s true calling, and he eventually gave that career up to become a visionary hotel developer and wine producer. Literally bigger than life, he was also extraordinarily humble (no doubt due to his Texas upbringing). Moreover, the true measure of anyone was met and exceeded by Fess, who made the world around him a better place. The United States has lost a great patriot and his family a beloved husband and father. My heartfelt condolences to them. The quality of the Fess Parker wines, made by his son, Eli, and his winemaking team, has always been very good, and the wines have long offered considerable value – a goal of Fess’s from the beginning. Tel. (805) 688-1545

Displaying the hedonistic style Fess Parker’s wines tend to possess, the 2006 Syrah American Tradition Reserve offers up smoky, meaty, cassis aromas intermixed with hints of roasted herbs, pepper, and black olives. A full-bodied, lush crowd-pleaser, it should drink well for 5-6 years. Tel. (805) 688-1545

Fess Parker’s fairly priced Syrahs are all well worth buying. Spicier as well as more noticeably oaky is the 2005 Syrah American Tradition Reserve. This is a bigger, fuller-bodied, more concentrated effort exhibiting abundant velvety tannin, pepper, spice, and meat characteristics as well as a hint of Provencal garrigue. Beautiful sweetness on the palate suggests high glycerin backed up by copious fruit. This 2005 should drink well for 5-7 years. This reliable winery still boasts Hollywood icon/hotel developer/top vineyard owner Fess Parker running the show. Moreover, he remains, at age 84, a giant of a man. This winery continues to turn out some of Santa Barbara’s finest values, as well as some super single vineyard wines. Tel. (805) 688-1545

The opaque ruby/purple-tinged 2002 Syrah American Tradition Reserve offers sweet scents of smoky, toasty oak interwoven with creme de cassis, charcoal, and earthy/forest floor characteristics. Full-bodied and opulent, with beautiful fruit purity, decent acidity, and sweet tannin, this may be the finest example yet produced under this moniker. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. Tel. (805) 688-1545

Two tasters picked up pickled asparagus on the nose of this wine, enough to keep it firmly out of the ranks of the high scorers. That said, it still has a pleasant, soft mouthfeel and decent flavors of red berries and spice; one of our reviewers felt it was much better than reflected in the average score. ——W.E.(9/1/2005)—— 83