A delicious IGT blend of 50% Garganega, 20% Pinot Grigio, 20% Trebbiano di Soave and 10% Durella, the 2012 Roncha is a wine that scores high both in terms of personality and execution. There is enormous richness here with orange blossom and honeysuckle rounded off by toasted nut, pear and dried apricot. Pretty mineral notes add definition and focus to the finish.

A delicious blend of Garganega (50%), Pinot Grigio, Trebbiano di Soave and Durella, the 2011 Roncha has the substance to stand up to spicy Thai or Vietnamese dishes. A small percentage of the Garganega harvested is left to air-dry and the wine does indeed show pretty creaminess and density. The bouquet opens to honey, white flower, stone fruit and there’s a touch of candied orange peel as well. This is great value for a wonderfully expressive Italian white. Drink 2013-2017. Antonio Fattori is one of the most talented white winemakers in the Veneto. Although he also makes Valpolicella reds, his white Soave expressions are the true standouts. I remember visiting him at his super sleek and impossibly tidy winery a few years back. He led me to a tiny plot of land just across the street and pointed to the soil. It was the most amazing color with deep amber-yellow hues and bright veins of red. Just one hill over, I had seen dark soils with dusty shadings of dark grey and black. The volcanic geology of the Soave region is fascinating and the variability is mesmerizing. The red soils of the aptly named Terrossa di Ronca subzone produce ethereal and elegant white wines that are powerfully distinguished by their chiseled mineral notes. Fattori’s wines embrace this quality perfectly. Importers: T-Edward Wines, www.tedwardwines.com; Vanguard Wines, www.vanguardwines.com; J & J Importers, www.jjimporters.com; Terra Vino Inc., www.terravinopartners.com; The Wine Co., www.thewinecompany.net