The 2009 Chardonnay Summum Seven Springs Vineyard received the same elevage as its siblings but was chosen from a tenderloin parcel of the vineyard. It offers up a complex perfume of minerals, smoke, floral notes, white peach, and spiced apple. This sets the stage for a remarkably rich, concentrated, and lengthy Chardonnay, one of the finest I have tasted from Oregon. By the way, all three Chardonnays weigh in at under 13% alcohol and with pHs less than 3.4.Evening Land Vineyards is a group headed by movie magnate Mark Tarlov that also owns Pinot vineyards in the Sonoma Coast and Santa Rita Hills and is making wines in Burgundy. They gained control of one of the Willamette Valley’s prized properties, Seven Springs Vineyard, and created an immediate sensation by signing on Dominique Lafon of Comte Lafon in Burgundy as consulting winemaker. The Evening Land group is also making a major effort to restore the health and vitality of Seven Springs. The most recent development is the addition of renowned Master Sommelier Larry Stone as President and GM of the group in August 2010.Tel. (503) 395-2520; www.eveninglandvineyards.com

The 2007 Chardonnay Summum Seven Springs Vineyard exhibits a similar personality. Minerals, baking spices, hazelnuts, white peach, and melon aromas lead to a smooth wine with superior depth and concentration, all elements in harmony, and a very long finish. This high-class effort is likely to evolve for 2-3 years and drink well for a decade. Evening Land Vineyards is a group headed by movie magnate Mark Tarlov that also owns Pinot vineyards in the Sonoma Coast and Santa Rita Hills. They gained control of one of the Willamette Valley’s prized properties, Seven Springs Vineyard, and created an immediate sensation by signing on Dominique Lafon of Comte Lafon in Burgundy as consulting winemaker. The good news is that the Evening Land group is making a major effort to restore the health and vitality of Seven Springs; the bad news is that several wineries that made terrific wine from Seven Springs fruit will no longer have access. 2007 was a superb year for Willamette Valley white wines because of the vibrant natural acidity provided by the cool vintage conditionswww.eveninglandsvineyards.com

Pure and detailed, this lovely Chardonnay carves its way through the palate with layers of pear tart, apple crisp, brioche and almond paste. It is an elegant wine, light and penetrating, with a finish that seems to linger forever. ——P.G.(6/1/2010)—— 92