Good concentration, which gives the fruit more plum and black cherry than red raspberry. It’s deep and sinuous, with threads of graphite and smoke, but the fruit is the star here, and the wine has the concentration and acidity to cellar well for a decade or more. ——P.G.(3/1/2011)—— 92

Very fragrant, aromatic and complex before it even hits your mouth. These 20-year-old vines are moving into full maturity, and carry the cherry fruit and iron core of the best Dundee Hills terroir. Though the alcohol is a bit on the high side (14.7%), the wine remains in balance, with a perfect match of fruit, acid, tannin and barrel.——P.G.(4/1/2010)—— 92