Very fragrant, aromatic and complex before it even hits your mouth. These 20-year-old vines are moving into full maturity, and carry the cherry fruit and iron core of the best Dundee Hills terroir. Though the alcohol is a bit on the high side (14.7%), the wine remains in balance, with a perfect match of fruit, acid, tannin and barrel.——P.G.(4/1/2010)—— 92