Sometimes winery prices can be baffling. Here’s a value producer, with excellent wines at a $12 and $24 price point, and they tag this one with the big 50. It sets up certain expectations. The justification seems to be the wine’s extra-strong concentration, the alcohol topping out at 15.5%, and a strong streak of vanilla. If that’s your style, go for it.——P.G.(11/15/2007)—— 86

Earthy, leafy, mulchy flavors. 480 cases made. -HS

Soft and open-textured, with a distinct earthy streak running through the currant and plum fruit. Yummy now, but it can grow. Drink now through 2006. 400 cases made. -HS

Crisp, focused and generous with its black cherry, sage and dusky spice flavors. Has some chewy tannins to lose, but it has the flavor to balance. Best from 2002 through 2007. 303 cases made. -HS