The 2001 Pinot Gris is not at the qualitative level of the Chardonnays, but readers looking for a light-bodied, crisp, perfumed, fresh, dry white should check it out. The wine is designed for uncomplicated aperitif sipping. It does not possess much body or aftertaste, but for casual quaffing, it can't be beat. Enjoy it over the next year. This Burgundian-styled offering is an absolute steal. Kudos to Edna Valley Vineyard for this value.Tel. (707) 254-4200

A reasonably good value, the tank-fermented, richly fruity, elegant 1999 Pinot Gris offers notions of allspice as well as underripe peach and apple-like fruit. Dry, medium-bodied, and crisp, it offers uncritical quaffing. Tel. (805) 544-9594; Fax (805) 544-0112