The opaque ruby/purple-colored 1999 Syrah Durell Vineyard reveals a sweet perfume of creme de cassis, licorice, and wild herbs. Full-bodied, unevolved, rich, thick, and loaded, it should evolve nicely for 12-15 years.Tel. (510) 654-1230

The unevolved 1997 Syrah Durell Vineyard offers terrific fruit, but still tastes like a barrel sample. A saturated blue/purple color is followed by abundant quantities of cassis, blackberry, and black raspberry fruit scents. There is some underlying toasty wood in this formidably concentrated, spicy, dense, powerful Syrah. It needs 2-3 years of cellaring, but should keep for 12-15+.This 4,000 case winery will expand production in 1999 to approximately 10,000 cases. This is good news for everyone who has been trying to find these hand-crafted products.One of my favorite artisanal California producers, Edmunds St. John continues to do tasty things with an assortment of varietals other than the wine world's favorite flavors - Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.Tel. (510) 981-1510; Fax (510) 981-1610

This winery has always done a terrific job with Mediterranean-styled Rhone Ranger blends, so no one should be surprised by the enthusiastic review that follows. Once again, the 1994 Syrah Durell Vineyard is a blockbuster wine. Opaque ruby/purple, with a big, smoky, cassis, peppery, chocolatey nose, this full-bodied, thrillingly extracted, pure, rich, dazzling Syrah is still young, but accessible. Full-bodied, rich, and exceptionally impressive, this is a superb expression of California Syrah. Drink it over the next 15+ years.Tel. (510) 654-1230

Another terrific Syrah from one of my favorite wineries, this opaque purple-colored 1993 Durell Vineyard displays a big, smoky, cassis, and bacon fat-scented nose, full body, outstanding concentration, considerable richness, and impressive length. The tannin is largely concealed by the wine's copious fruit. Although approachable, it will not hit its peak for 2-5 years; it will age well for 15 years. Tel. (510) 654-1230

The blockbuster 1992 Syrah Durell Vineyard is a must purchase for Syrah fanatics, or wine enthusiasts who cannot get enough Hermitage. One of the greatest Syrahs this property has produced, the purple/black color is followed by a huge, fragrant nose of smoked meats, toast, chocolate, and jammy black currants. The wine displays exceptional flavor concentration, great stature and richness, beautifully integrated acidity, and ripe tannin. This full-bodied, massive, exquisitely balanced Syrah is capable of 20-25 years of evolution. A prodigious effort! One of my favorite producers, Edmunds St.-John can be relied on to turn out gorgeously rich, personality-filled wines that are a treat to taste and drink.Tel. (510) 654-1230.