Both the 1990 and 1991 Syrah-Durrell Vineyards are dead ringers for a great Hermitage. The huge smoky, bacon fat-scented noses deliver aromas of ground beef, leather, and massive black fruit. These wines are extraordinarily concentrated, with soft tannins, high extract levels, and impeccable balance. They will age well for 10-15 years. The 1991 is more backward, with higher acidity, whereas the 1990 is riper and more evolved. Bravo!Of the group of California wineries dedicated to producing wines from grapes that have been made famous by France's Rhone Valley, Edmunds St. John may be its finest practitioner. The wines exhibit exceptional winemaking talent, a sense of balance and grace, and considerable pleasure and character. All of the current and forthcoming red wine releases merit serious interest. The wines, all fashioned after France's great Rhone Valley reds, are rich, exuberant, full-bodied wines loaded with ripe fruit.
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