There's a hint of wood on the nose of the 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc, which had yet to be bottled at the time of my visit last October. A pretty traditional blend, led by Grenache Blanc and Roussanne, it offers up notes of scorched pear, ripe melon and citrus on the nose, while the medium to full-bodied palate is plump and juicy, yet it delivers a welcome, balancing sense of stoniness on the finish.

A blend of 45% Grenache Blanc, 25% Roussanne, 15% Clairette, 10% Bourboulenc, 3% Piquepoul and 2% Picardin, Guigal's 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc (only its third vintage) is full-bodied, round and generous. Notes of melon, beeswax and pear come across a bit broad on the palate, finishing just a little soft. Drink it young.

The 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is a new wine for this historic firm. Put together from eight suppliers' wines, it's a full-bodied, round effort that reflects the ripe vintage without being flabby or overly alcoholic. Subtle melon, tangerine and spice notes wash across the palate in a silky wave in this blend that includes 45% Grenache Blanc, 25% Roussanne and smaller amounts of Clairette, Bourboulenc, Picpoul and Picardan. Only the Roussanne saw oak (50% new), accounting for the wine's texture, while the rest of the varieties aged in stainless steel.