Dry, smoky, yet richly complex, opening with a potent bouquet of tart cherry, earth, fern, stable and bacon fat aromas. The palate was leaner than expected, showing very brisk acidity and cranberry, cherry-vanilla and toast flavors. Still, it’s quite attractive in a bright, angular manner, closing with tart, tangy tannins.——W.E.(10/1/2002)—— 89