Flashy and flamboyant, but smells and tastes overoaked, with buttered toast, caramel and vanilla meringue notes swamping the underlying tangerine, lemon and mango fruit. Drink now. ——S.H.(11/1/2011)—— 86

Super-rich in vanilla and smoky caramelized oak, and ripe in pineapples, peaches and apples, this is a powerful Chardonnay. It’s dramatic now in sheer strength, but not an ager, so drink now.——S.H.(2/1/2010)—— 92

Tremendously rich and oaky, with butterscotch-inspired pineapple, golden mango pear and Meyer lemon flavors that are as rich as creme brulee. Dramatic now, if a bit overpowering. Calls for carefully crafted foods of the richest level, like lobster. ——S.H.(12/1/2009)—— 94

Like the winery’s other 2005 Chardonnays, this one, tasted in March, is tightly wound and minerally. The aroma will show little if the wine is too cold. Flavor-wise, hints of tart tangerines, lemongrass, green apples, candied ginger and vanilla cream swirl into a smoky oak, spicy finish. This is a Chardonnay that needs some time in the bottle. Drink now and for a couple of years.——S.H.(9/1/2007)—— 93