This unusual wine, from Dunham’s estate vineyard, is dark and shows Rhone-like flavors of blood and cured meats. The fruit is tart—wild berry and cranberry flavors just on the edge of herbal, but laden with grace notes of herb, mineral and coffee. It’s a pleasure to taste a Washington Syrah with this complexity at a very French (13%) level of alcohol.——P.G.(5/1/2009)—— 90