Rich, concentrated, and loaded with smoky, dark, spicy fruit flavors, this is a full-on Bordeaux blend, with Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. There’s plenty of barrel influence, from 70% new French oak, but it’s welcome, and appropriate, perfectly matched to the power of the fruit. An underlayer of woodsy earth and mushroom adds further complexity.——P.G.(12/1/2010)—— 94