The entry on this single-vineyard Chard is strangely neutral. It’s not until the middle palate that a blast of sweet, vanilla-y toasty oak hits, and also pear, mango and spice flavors. From then on, it’s a satisfying wine, rich and elegant. — (12/1/2005) —87

Walks a tightrope. Starts with a tease of ripe pineapple and mango, and then the acids and alcohol take over, leaving an impression of tart leanness. You can’t quite decide if it’s a big wine, or just well balanced. The right food, such as sea bass seared in butter and served with a fruit salsa, will be perfect.——S.H.(12/31/2004)—— 89