Walks a tightrope. Starts with a tease of ripe pineapple and mango, and then the acids and alcohol take over, leaving an impression of tart leanness. You can’t quite decide if it’s a big wine, or just well balanced. The right food, such as sea bass seared in butter and served with a fruit salsa, will be perfect.——S.H.(12/31/2004)—— 89