Dominique Piron Domaine de Combiaty Brouilly, Beaujolais, France

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Piron’s 2010 Brouilly Domaine de Combiaty delivers ripe, fresh blueberry and blackberry tinged with pungent green herbs and raw hazelnut, leading to an invigorating and refreshing if somewhat lean palate impression and finish. As usual, this cuvee received only around half the vatting of a Piron Morgon, which was in any event reduced for the 2010 vintage. I would be inclined to drink this next year. Most of their Brouilly, note the Pirons, is bought by the French as bistro wine. Dominique and Kristine Piron (for more about whose holdings, methods, and diverse domaines consult my reports in issues 184 and 190) began picking their 2010s on September 22 – exactly two weeks later than in 2009 – and did not finish until October 4. Even then, the effects of a late start to the growing season and relatively cool weather seemed particularly evident in a collection that could benefit from a bit more generous fruit and charm, which hopefully some of the wines I tasted were simply at an inopportune stage in June for displaying. The fruit was half or more destemmed to compensate for potential under-ripeness as well as sheer abundance of wood, and extraction was rendered even more gentle than usual. Since this estate generally releases its wines relatively late, 2011 is really the calendar year for investing in their outstanding 2009s, about which I wrote in issue 190. (That said, Kristine Piron laughingly relates the incredulity of some potential customers – not including their U.S. importers – in the face of the estate’s typical release policy, and her occasional reluctant acquiescence to their insistent appeals to be sold wines of the latest vintage.)Importers include Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040 and Potomac Selections, Inc., Landover MD; tel. (301) 583- 8844

Piron’s 2009 Brouilly Domaine de Combiaty is loaded with ripe blueberry and blackberry mingled with black pepper and salted beef marrow; is silken smooth; and finishes with generous refreshment. The only thing one could ask for here is additional complexity – some of which may come – and while it is practically irresistible in tank, I certainly would not hesitate to plan on enjoying the bottled product over a 2-3 year period. Dominique Piron – for more about whom consult my report in issue 184 – did not begin harvesting his 2009s until September 7 and then worked at it for two weeks (even though his crop was radically reduced by the hail that afflicted nearly every commune in which he grows grapes). Despite the warm weather and reduced crop, only a few of Piron’s individual lots – and none of his finished blends – exceeded 14% alcohol. He segregated an unprecedented number of different Morgons from 2009, but this isn’t merely a case of his next-door neighbor Jean-Marc Burgaud’s practices rubbing off: the distinctive quality of Piron’s five cuvees justifies their number – indeed, this represents far and away the finest Piron collection I have tasted (granting that the assembled wines were still all in tank when I visited in April) and a confirmation that this is among the region’s outstanding, top value-delivering addresses.Importers include Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040 and Williams Corner Wine, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 566 7079

From tank, an approximation to the final assemblage of Piron’s 2008 Brouilly Domaine de Combiaty displayed a gorgeous nose of blueberries, freesia, and lily; offered a light but juicy, glossy, and by no means spare palate impression; and finished with restraint but refreshment. It should be worth following for at least a couple of years, and hopefully the shock of filtration and bottling will not damage its delicate constitution and lovely aromas. Dominique Piron and his American oenologist wife Kristine-Mary have been both experimental and increasingly successful in recent vintages, and last year they significantly expanded their acreage. (Certain domaines or partnerships within their holdings are separately designated on the labels, but all bear the inscription “Dominique Piron” as well.) Availability in the U.S. has been a bit limited as yet, though, and I could not get retail prices on many of their 2007 crus – several of which I already reviewed in issue 178 – while the 2008 (a couple of lots still in malo when I visited in April) have for the most part yet to be released at the winery.Importers:Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040 and Williams Corner Wine, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 566 7079