Dominique Piron Domaine de Combiaty Brouilly, Beaujolais, France

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From tank, an approximation to the final assemblage of Piron’s 2008 Brouilly Domaine de Combiaty displayed a gorgeous nose of blueberries, freesia, and lily; offered a light but juicy, glossy, and by no means spare palate impression; and finished with restraint but refreshment. It should be worth following for at least a couple of years, and hopefully the shock of filtration and bottling will not damage its delicate constitution and lovely aromas. Dominique Piron and his American oenologist wife Kristine-Mary have been both experimental and increasingly successful in recent vintages, and last year they significantly expanded their acreage. (Certain domaines or partnerships within their holdings are separately designated on the labels, but all bear the inscription “Dominique Piron” as well.) Availability in the U.S. has been a bit limited as yet, though, and I could not get retail prices on many of their 2007 crus – several of which I already reviewed in issue 178 – while the 2008 (a couple of lots still in malo when I visited in April) have for the most part yet to be released at the winery.Importers:Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040 and Williams Corner Wine, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 566 7079