The Piron 2010 Morgon Grands Cras – named for a relatively clay-rich mingling of granite and basalt near the winery and below the Cote de Py – delivers just-ripe red raspberry and mulberry on a bright palate, with a streak of salt adding to its sense of finishing invigoration, even granted a slightly somber stony undertone. This is one of those 2010s where you sense the tartness of skins and crunch of seeds. An animal dimension can be anticipated if this runs true to appellation, and perhaps a bit of richness will emerge. I would in either event expect this to be worth following for at least several years. Dominique and Kristine Piron (for more about whose holdings, methods, and diverse domaines consult my reports in issues 184 and 190) began picking their 2010s on September 22 – exactly two weeks later than in 2009 – and did not finish until October 4. Even then, the effects of a late start to the growing season and relatively cool weather seemed particularly evident in a collection that could benefit from a bit more generous fruit and charm, which hopefully some of the wines I tasted were simply at an inopportune stage in June for displaying. The fruit was half or more destemmed to compensate for potential under-ripeness as well as sheer abundance of wood, and extraction was rendered even more gentle than usual. Since this estate generally releases its wines relatively late, 2011 is really the calendar year for investing in their outstanding 2009s, about which I wrote in issue 190. (That said, Kristine Piron laughingly relates the incredulity of some potential customers – not including their U.S. importers – in the face of the estate’s typical release policy, and her occasional reluctant acquiescence to their insistent appeals to be sold wines of the latest vintage.)Importers include Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040 and Potomac Selections, Inc., Landover MD; tel. (301) 583- 8844

Piron’s 2009 Morgon Grands Cras – named for the relatively clay-rich southern tier of the appellation, below the Cote de Py; like his other Morgons of the vintage, only partly de-stemmed and given 14 days fermentation including pigeage – is scented and flavored with blackberry and red raspberry; shot through with alkaline and saline minerality, toasted almond, bitter chocolate, and ginger spice; and manages to both caress with its polished lushness and at the same time refresh and invigorate. This really has a wide tonal range and supportive density, and should be worth following for at least 3-4 years. Dominique Piron – for more about whom consult my report in issue 184 – did not begin harvesting his 2009s until September 7 and then worked at it for two weeks (even though his crop was radically reduced by the hail that afflicted nearly every commune in which he grows grapes). Despite the warm weather and reduced crop, only a few of Piron’s individual lots – and none of his finished blends – exceeded 14% alcohol. He segregated an unprecedented number of different Morgons from 2009, but this isn’t merely a case of his next-door neighbor Jean-Marc Burgaud’s practices rubbing off: the distinctive quality of Piron’s five cuvees justifies their number – indeed, this represents far and away the finest Piron collection I have tasted (granting that the assembled wines were still all in tank when I visited in April) and a confirmation that this is among the region’s outstanding, top value-delivering addresses.Importers include Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040 and Williams Corner Wine, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 566 7079