Dominique Piron Morgon Grands Cras

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：3225

Piron’s 2009 Morgon Grands Cras – named for the relatively clay-rich southern tier of the appellation, below the Cote de Py; like his other Morgons of the vintage, only partly de-stemmed and given 14 days fermentation including pigeage – is scented and flavored with blackberry and red raspberry; shot through with alkaline and saline minerality, toasted almond, bitter chocolate, and ginger spice; and manages to both caress with its polished lushness and at the same time refresh and invigorate. This really has a wide tonal range and supportive density, and should be worth following for at least 3-4 years. Dominique Piron – for more about whom consult my report in issue 184 – did not begin harvesting his 2009s until September 7 and then worked at it for two weeks (even though his crop was radically reduced by the hail that afflicted nearly every commune in which he grows grapes). Despite the warm weather and reduced crop, only a few of Piron’s individual lots – and none of his finished blends – exceeded 14% alcohol. He segregated an unprecedented number of different Morgons from 2009, but this isn’t merely a case of his next-door neighbor Jean-Marc Burgaud’s practices rubbing off: the distinctive quality of Piron’s five cuvees justifies their number – indeed, this represents far and away the finest Piron collection I have tasted (granting that the assembled wines were still all in tank when I visited in April) and a confirmation that this is among the region’s outstanding, top value-delivering addresses.Importers include Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040 and Williams Corner Wine, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 566 7079