Tasted at the estate, Fèvre's 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume (négoce) is one of the more open, charming wines in the range, bursting with aromas of crisp orchard fruit, clear honey, white flowers and oyster jus. Medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, it's bright and lively, with good depth at the core and a saline finish. Revisiting a bottle at my office in the United States, however, was a reminder that everything is relative, as—tasted on its own—even this cuvée is quite chiseled and tightly wound, crying out for a bit of bottle age.

The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume (négoce) offers up aromas of lemon oil, white flowers and oyster shell. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and delicately glossy, with tangy acids, an open-knit, giving core and a bright, saline finish. This is an immediate, charming Fourchaume that is already showing well.

Aromas of wet stone, earth and yeasty notes. It is very minerally and tight in the mouth with good ripeness and taut acidity. Should improve. Very long and elegant in the classic Chablis mould. Good. Drink 2014-2017. Alc: 13%. (16.5 points)