Domaine William Fevre Petit Chablis, Chablis, France

威廉?費(fèi)爾（小夏布利）白葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：9657

The 2016 Petit Chablis has a simple, primal, grapefruit-driven bouquet. The palate is simple with a slightly chalky opening and is quite fresh in the mouth but attenuates a little toward the finish. Drink over the next couple of years.

The 2015 Petit Chablis has a crisp apple blossom scented bouquet. The palate is very fresh with a stony texture, a keen thread of acidity and a short, punchy finish. Perhaps just a little ephemeral even for a Petit Chablis, though it has satisfactory freshness.

The 2014 Petit Chablis, which comes from purchased fruit and is vinified in stainless steel, was impressive last year and I still find more energy here than the 2015 that had recently been bottled. Maybe it has just lost a little detail on the finish, which is why I docked a point from my score.

The 2011 Petit Chablis (maison) is an attractive, straightforward wine well suited for drinking over the next few years. Hints of mint and flowers add complexity on the fleshy, generous finish. This is a pretty wine for what it is. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. (Not yet released) Fevre was among the first producers to bring in their 2011s. The 2011 harvest started on August 31st, the earliest on record with the exception of 2003. Winemaker Didier Seguir was quick to add that 2011 was a precocious year, but not as shockingly hot as 2003. Early April and May were very hot, which led to an early flowering, but then temperatures moderated in June. Hail at the end of June and early July affected Fourchaume, Vaulorent, Preuses, Vaudesir and Clos, all on the right bank, where production was down 5-30%, which placed yields at 40-50 hectoliters per hectare as opposed to the 50-60 that were obtained on the left bank, where hail was not an issue. Seguir lightly chaptalized some of the wines, and noted that the acidities came in around 4-4.5%, which he describes as moderate (along the lines of 2000 and 2002) and lower than 2008 and 2010. When the Fevre wines are young, they appear to be very tight and in need of cellaring. At the same time, it is hard for me to suggest holding these wines for more than a few years, as I have personally had a lot of issues with premature oxidation with Fevre wines from my own cellar. To be fair, since 2007 all of the wines have been sealed with the Diamant corks, which are made from a combination of natural and synthetic materials designed to allow for the gradual exchange of oxygen that is so important for wines to age gracefully with more reliability than standard cork. The 2011 Petit Chablis was bottled at the end of April 2012, followed by the Champs Royaux in May and the Chablis (domaine) in early June. All of the other 2011s were still aging on their lees in tank. As has been the custom here for the last few years, Seguir does a fairly short elevage in largely neutral oak that lasts 4-6 months, after which the wines age in tank. Note: the overwhelming majority of the Fevre wines are Domaine Fevre, but there are a few wines in this lineup that are made from purchased fruit. Those wines are identified as (maison) in the wine name. There are two bottlings that are made in both a domaine and maison version, the straight Chablis (I only tasted the domaine bottling) and the Montmains (I tasted both). The 2010 premier crus were bottled after the 2011 vintage, while the grand crus were bottled last December. Importer: Henriot Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605 670

The 2010 Petit Chablis (maison) is quite a bit fresher and more vibrant than the 2011 version. It possesses gorgeous nuance and vibrancy at this level. The Petit Chablis is a great introduction to the vintage. White flowers, oyster shells and green pears wrap around the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. Fevre was among the first producers to bring in their 2011s. The 2011 harvest started on August 31st, the earliest on record with the exception of 2003. Winemaker Didier Seguir was quick to add that 2011 was a precocious year, but not as shockingly hot as 2003. Early April and May were very hot, which led to an early flowering, but then temperatures moderated in June. Hail at the end of June and early July affected Fourchaume, Vaulorent, Preuses, Vaudesir and Clos, all on the right bank, where production was down 5-30%, which placed yields at 40-50 hectoliters per hectare as opposed to the 50-60 that were obtained on the left bank, where hail was not an issue. Seguir lightly chaptalized some of the wines, and noted that the acidities came in around 4-4.5%, which he describes as moderate (along the lines of 2000 and 2002) and lower than 2008 and 2010. When the Fevre wines are young, they appear to be very tight and in need of cellaring. At the same time, it is hard for me to suggest holding these wines for more than a few years, as I have personally had a lot of issues with premature oxidation with Fevre wines from my own cellar. To be fair, since 2007 all of the wines have been sealed with the Diamant corks, which are made from a combination of natural and synthetic materials designed to allow for the gradual exchange of oxygen that is so important for wines to age gracefully with more reliability than standard cork. The 2011 Petit Chablis was bottled at the end of April 2012, followed by the Champs Royaux in May and the Chablis (domaine) in early June. All of the other 2011s were still aging on their lees in tank. As has been the custom here for the last few years, Seguir does a fairly short elevage in largely neutral oak that lasts 4-6 months, after which the wines age in tank. Note: the overwhelming majority of the Fevre wines are Domaine Fevre, but there are a few wines in this lineup that are made from purchased fruit. Those wines are identified as (maison) in the wine name. There are two bottlings that are made in both a domaine and maison version, the straight Chablis (I only tasted the domaine bottling) and the Montmains (I tasted both). The 2010 premier crus were bottled after the 2011 vintage, while the grand crus were bottled last December. Importer: Henriot Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605 670