The Fallers’ 2004 Pinot Noir Reserve evinces pungent, smoky, and black fruit aromas, then delivers clear, penetrating fresh blackberry and black cherry fruit, with smoky, meaty adjuncts. I suspect this Pinot – which exudes a certain albeit hard-to-pin-down Alsace-typical aura – will be best enjoyed over the next couple of years. (The 2005 Pinot Noir offered tarter fruit and a more youthfully austere finish, and I was not entirely convinced by the effects of barrique maturation that characterize their so-called “W” Pinot Noir ottling.)The dynamic trio of Fallers continues to bottle some of France’s (hardly just Alsace’s) richest and most flamboyant wines. Beginning with 2005, all of their vineyards are being biodynamically farmed. Laurence Faller finds their 2005s in general “more focused and clear” (this was especially true of Riesling) despite their often prominent botrytis component, and the 2004s richer. I suppose it goes without saying, but one has to carefully scrutinize each Weinbach label, so numerous are the cuvees. And as wonderful as is the distinctiveness exhibited by the vast majority of wines here, even a geek like yours truly could be forgiven for asking whether somewhat fewer different ottling might benefit consumers as well as journalists!Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802