Already with Weinbach’s intro-level 2009 Riesling Reserve Personnelle we are at 14% alcohol (reflecting, notes Catherine Faller, the stress placed on younger vines), which when combined with low acid and a hint of overripe fruits does little to entice, whereas Weinbach’s 2009 Riesling Cuvee Theo – at the same 14% alcohol – preserves an attractive core of primary juiciness and a sense of cut. Muscat- or Sauvignon-like notes of sage, boxwood, and fresh lime migrate to a broad, apple- and peach-saturated palate, while the bitterness of herbal concentrates and lime peel adds to the sense of invigoration projected in the finish. Drink this over the next 2-3 years, lest its bitterness and alcohol become at all problematic. Both 2008 and 2009 were clearly challenging at Domaine Weinbach, many of their wines from the latter illustrating that vintage’s weaknesses. (Catherine and Collette Faller elected not to present me their – admittedly, at the time not yet officially approved – 2009 vintage V.T. and S.G.N. bottlings.) Harvesting at this estate is generally on the late side and in this instance continued until October 20, which I hypothesized while tasting might have been a bit too late for such nearly uniformly ripeness as seems to have prevailed by late September of 2009. The first vintage from this estate that I tasted as young wine was 1979 (‘though I did not visit until 1984), so I’ve experienced a full range of collections from cool, late growing seasons such as have nowadays become scarce; but only from a couple of genuinely ripeness-deficient vintages of the 1980s, and then again from 1996, can I recall acid levels as prominent as those harbored by the Weinbach 2008s, and this has rendered some of them youthfully severe or nervous, though one hopes and indeed expects that the best will calm down, round out, and harmonize over time, without losing their vivacity, focus, and in some instances power. Don’t be misled by the scores I have assigned to this 2008 collection: really, a question mark hangs over them all because it’s how these wines respond to bottle age which will determine the verdict that matters. A look at the 1996s provides some tantalizing clues but little confidence. Some 1996s have evolved beautifully, while others seem caught in a time warp, their agitated, faintly aggravating adolescent Sturm und Drang almost unseemly for their age. With all this in mind I recently revisited a bottle of 1981 Weinbach Gewurztraminer V.T. – a wine whose residual sugar was lower than that of most non-V.T. Gewurz at this address today, and whose acidity in youth was formidable – and that wine was spectacular. And as you’ll see from my notes, Gewurztraminer is the most likely candidate for stardom in the 2008 Weinbach collection. (For considerable detail on the slope origins of the many Weinbach cuvees, consult my reports in issues 188 and 175.) I can’t resist noting that suggested retail prices for the most recent releases are little more than half what I was being quoted as recently as three vintages ago, making the best of the current crop especially worthy of wine lovers’ attention, even though neither 2008 nor 2009 is among this illustrious domaine’s most consistently successful collections.Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

The Fallers’ 2008 Riesling Cuvee Theo offers a paradigmatic Alsace Riesling nose of fresh lime, faint fusil oils, crushed stone, fruit pits, and brown spices, along with blazing acidity (10 grams) such as one rarely experiences any longer from this genre. A subtly oily texture supplies contrast for the wine’s brightness; and an admixture of salt with the crushed stone, citrus, and fruit pits makes for a finish of startling penetration and saliva inducement yet at the same time severity. Some (especially old-timers like me) will cry “classic!” – others may simply shriek. Give this 3-4 years in the cellar and look for 6-8 subsequent years of stimulation. Both 2008 and 2009 were clearly challenging at Domaine Weinbach, many of their wines from the latter illustrating that vintage’s weaknesses. (Catherine and Collette Faller elected not to present me their – admittedly, at the time not yet officially approved – 2009 vintage V.T. and S.G.N. bottlings.) Harvesting at this estate is generally on the late side and in this instance continued until October 20, which I hypothesized while tasting might have been a bit too late for such nearly uniformly ripeness as seems to have prevailed by late September of 2009. The first vintage from this estate that I tasted as young wine was 1979 (‘though I did not visit until 1984), so I’ve experienced a full range of collections from cool, late growing seasons such as have nowadays become scarce; but only from a couple of genuinely ripeness-deficient vintages of the 1980s, and then again from 1996, can I recall acid levels as prominent as those harbored by the Weinbach 2008s, and this has rendered some of them youthfully severe or nervous, though one hopes and indeed expects that the best will calm down, round out, and harmonize over time, without losing their vivacity, focus, and in some instances power. Don’t be misled by the scores I have assigned to this 2008 collection: really, a question mark hangs over them all because it’s how these wines respond to bottle age which will determine the verdict that matters. A look at the 1996s provides some tantalizing clues but little confidence. Some 1996s have evolved beautifully, while others seem caught in a time warp, their agitated, faintly aggravating adolescent Sturm und Drang almost unseemly for their age. With all this in mind I recently revisited a bottle of 1981 Weinbach Gewurztraminer V.T. – a wine whose residual sugar was lower than that of most non-V.T. Gewurz at this address today, and whose acidity in youth was formidable – and that wine was spectacular. And as you’ll see from my notes, Gewurztraminer is the most likely candidate for stardom in the 2008 Weinbach collection. (For considerable detail on the slope origins of the many Weinbach cuvees, consult my reports in issues 188 and 175.) I can’t resist noting that suggested retail prices for the most recent releases are little more than half what I was being quoted as recently as three vintages ago, making the best of the current crop especially worthy of wine lovers’ attention, even though neither 2008 nor 2009 is among this illustrious domaine’s most consistently successful collections.Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

The Fallers’ 2007 Riesling Cuvee Theo – as usual, from the mature vines of their Clos des Capucins – is scented with tangerine zest, pungent herbs, and suggestions of fresh citrus that then dominate on a lusciously juicy palate, with hints of alkalinity as well as persistent herb and spice showing through the fruit in the finish. I would expect this to perform well for at least 7-9 years. This year, Domaine Weinbach will receive its official certification as organic and biodynamic growers. The Fallers did well in the difficult 2006 vintage – especially with those Gewurztraminer harvested before botrytis gained the upper hand – and with good reason expressed elation over the vibrancy and refinement that characterizes most of 2007s.Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

While the corresponding Riesling Reserve Personnelle - from the young vines within their Clos des Capucins - was a bit too fungal and bitter to be more than modestly recommendable, the Fallers-' 2006 Riesling Cuvee Theo - from the mature vines - delivers bright orange citricity with pungent herbal and brown spice as well as fusil and alkaline inflections, a wine clearly tinged by botrytis and needing to be enjoyed within the next couple of years, but satisfyingly juicy and (despite a bit of residual sugar) dry-tasting. Counterpoint of apricot cream and fresh lime as well as of soothing richness and invigorating pungency and fruit pit piquancy lends this an attractive dynamic. This year, Domaine Weinbach will receive its official certification as organic and biodynamic growers. The Fallers did well in the difficult 2006 vintage - especially with those Gewurztraminer harvested before botrytis gained the upper hand - and with good reason expressed elation over the vibrancy and refinement that characterizes most of 2007s.Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

From mature vines within the Clos des Capucins, the 2005 Riesling Cuvee Theo smells pungently of sage, crushed stone, and citrus zest, displays an oily and faintly chewy texture on an obviously extract-rich palate, and finishes long on zesty, stony, fruit pit and herbal bitterness balanced by hints of honey and refreshing citrus. While this displays more grip and concentration than the Reserve Personnelle, it has less charm. Quite possibly one will be able to enjoy it over a longer period, say 5-7 years.The dynamic trio of Fallers continues to bottle some of France’s (hardly just Alsace’s) richest and most flamboyant wines. Beginning with 2005, all of their vineyards are being biodynamically farmed. Laurence Faller finds their 2005s in general “more focused and clear” (this was especially true of Riesling) despite their often prominent botrytis component, and the 2004s richer. I suppose it goes without saying, but one has to carefully scrutinize each Weinbach label, so numerous are the cuvees. And as wonderful as is the distinctiveness exhibited by the vast majority of wines here, even a geek like yours truly could be forgiven for asking whether somewhat fewer different ottling might benefit consumers as well as journalists!Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802