From mature vines within the Clos des Capucins, the 2005 Riesling Cuvee Theo smells pungently of sage, crushed stone, and citrus zest, displays an oily and faintly chewy texture on an obviously extract-rich palate, and finishes long on zesty, stony, fruit pit and herbal bitterness balanced by hints of honey and refreshing citrus. While this displays more grip and concentration than the Reserve Personnelle, it has less charm. Quite possibly one will be able to enjoy it over a longer period, say 5-7 years.The dynamic trio of Fallers continues to bottle some of France’s (hardly just Alsace’s) richest and most flamboyant wines. Beginning with 2005, all of their vineyards are being biodynamically farmed. Laurence Faller finds their 2005s in general “more focused and clear” (this was especially true of Riesling) despite their often prominent botrytis component, and the 2004s richer. I suppose it goes without saying, but one has to carefully scrutinize each Weinbach label, so numerous are the cuvees. And as wonderful as is the distinctiveness exhibited by the vast majority of wines here, even a geek like yours truly could be forgiven for asking whether somewhat fewer different ottling might benefit consumers as well as journalists!Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802
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