Purchased as must, the 2019 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles exhibits notes of orange oil, pear, crisp green apple, freshly baked bread and vanilla pod. Medium-bodied, ample and lively, it's open-knit and, though a creditable effort, lacks a little concentration and texture when compared with the best cuvées in the range.

Wafting from the glass with hints of nutmeg, orange oil, fresh pear and white flowers, the 2018 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles is medium to full-bodied, layered and textural, with an ample and enveloping but nonetheless somewhat youthfully reserved profile.

Notes of peach, fresh pastry, anise, white flowers and both confit and fresh citrus introduce the 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles, a full-bodied, enveloping and textural wine that's lively and fleshy. Tasted from bottle, this is among the more extrovert of Germain's 2017 premiers crus.

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. The Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru les Pucelles 2011 from Vincent Girardin sports an attractive nose with scents of citrus peel and pink grapefruit. This is imbued with fine minerality, but you have the sense that it is holding something back. The palate is well balanced, slightly honeyed on the entry, a little richer than I expected, and the finish is missing the precision and tension of a top-flight Puligny premier cru. This is a very impressive showing for the Pucelles from Girardin.

In my view, the 2010 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles is the most complete of the Puligny premier crus. It covers every inch of the palate with stunning depth and richness. Layers of expressive fruit flow through to a creamy finish laced with smoke, licorice and spices. All the elements are in the right place. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Vincent Girardin recently sold his operation to Compagnie des Vins d’Autrefois, which previously had an ownership stake in the company. As part of the transaction, Girardin keeps eight hectares of vineyards, from which he will continue to supply the house. I am told that all the other fruit contracts remain in place, ensuring continuity in the maison’s range. Long-time winemaker Eric Germain, who has worked alongside Girardin for ten years, remains at the helm. So far, it looks like a little has changed, but it is early days so we will see. Germain told me the 2010s were harvested beginning on September 5. The premier and grand crus spent 18 months in oak (20% new), followed by two months in steel before being bottled in April and May 2012. As I wrote last year, the Girardin wines have undergone a pretty dramatic stylistic shift over the last few years. Today, the wines are made in a brighter, more focused style with less of the overt richness and oak influence the winemaking team believes was contributing to the premature evolution of the wines. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802