Scents of green tea, lime, and white peach waft from the glass of Girardin 2007 Saint-Aubin Les Murgers des Dents de Chien. Even brighter, tarter, and seemingly more chalk-starched than the corresponding En Remilly, this preserves a compensatory sweetness of fresh white peach and a high-toned, "cool" herbal accompaniment that steer it clear of austerity. A long, refreshing, saline, chalky, yet also lemon- and peach-filled finish gives promise of 6-8 years of fascinating enjoyment. Vincent Girardin picked until past mid-September, with most of his top sites being brought in only from the 10th; allowed skin contact he would have avoided until recent years; and beat the lees on his young wines only until Christmas, but then bottled – with a light fining, and in many instances no filtration – only in May, 2009 to maximize passive time on the lees. The regimen of new wood here (now 20-30% depending on cru) represents a drastic diminution in just the past several years, and the 2007s strike me as far more comfortable in their skins than those of 2004-2006, benefiting also from the freshness and vivacity that characterize the vintage. He picked a week too late in 2006, opines Girardin with hindsight, but then, this was almost unavoidable in at least some instances for a vintner with such huge acreage. Girardin finds his 2007s especially marked by the typicity of each individual site, not only to a greater degree than in the two more obviously ripe preceding vintages, but also than in 2008. This is an aspect he is convinced will gradually be enhanced by a conversion to biodynamic methods that is underway. Girardin's 2007 musts were selectively chaptalized and finished wines here are largely in the vicinity of 13% alcohol. As usual, given the vast array of estate and negociant wines at this address (the latter status noted, where applicable, in my texts), I was not able to take time for tasting them all; in particular omitting the generics. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

The 1997 St. Aubin Les Murgers des Dents de Chiens has a spice and anise-scented nose that gives way to a medium-bodied, pear and mineral-flavored character. This medium-bodied wine is refined, structured, and focused. Drink it over the next 6 years. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802.

The St. Aubin Les Murgers Des Dents de Chiens has tangy lemon, butter and stone aromas as well as a rich, silky, defined, ample, and medium-bodied, character with smoky mineral-flavors. It should be consumed before 2003. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802. Note: Vincent Girardin sells wines under the Baron de la Charriere label to European Cellars (Eric Solomon, tel (212) 924-4949). The wines marked with an asterisk (*) indicate that the same vineyard designation can be found through European Cellars, but the wine may not be the same as those listed here as Eric Solomon selects his barrels.