The 2020 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru Quintessence de Corton-Charlemagne is brilliant, as has routinely been the case for this bottling for some time now. Unwinding in the glass with notes of crisp Anjou pear, white flowers, toasted bread, nutmeg and orange zest, it's full-bodied, deep and layered, with a concentrated, muscular, multidimensional profile that reflects its Aloxe-Corton origins.

A brilliant wine, the 2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru Quintessence de Corton-Charlemagne unfurls in the glass with aromas of pear, citrus oil and peach, mingled with hints of hazelnuts, freshly baked bread and dried white flowers, framed by a deft touch of youthful reduction. Full-bodied, muscular and multidimensional, it's deep and layered, with huge reserves of concentration and structuring extract, girdled by vibrant acids. Long and penetrating, it derives from a single parcel in Aloxe-Corton below the (recently demolished) cross.

Aromas of pear, buttered toast, quince, white flowers and fresh bread introduce the 2018 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru Quintessence de Corton-Charlemagne, a full-bodied, layered and intense wine that's racy and electric, with terrific concentration, tangy acids and a long, intensely sapid finish.

The 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru Quintessence de Corton-Charlemagne was one of the most introverted wines in the range when I revisited it from bottle, unwinding to reveal scents of pear, white flowers, confit citrus and a delicate top note of petrol. On the palate, it's full-bodied, ample and satiny, with a deep and intensely concentrated core, but it's still very reserved after its recent bottling. Some patience will be in order here, though at maturity, I'm sure my score will look conservative.

From a parcel in Aloxe, the 2010 Quintessence de Corton-Charlemagne is quite a bit cooler and more reticent than the straight Corton-Charlemagne. White flowers, pears and crushed rocks are all woven together beautifully in this vibrant, deeply expressive Corton-Charlemagne. Ideally, the 2010 needs at least a couple of years for the fruit to emerge. Today, the incisive, crystalline mineral notes are most prominent. The silky, precise finish leaves a strong lasting impression. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. Vincent Girardin recently sold his operation to Compagnie des Vins d’Autrefois, which previously had an ownership stake in the company. As part of the transaction, Girardin keeps eight hectares of vineyards, from which he will continue to supply the house. I am told that all the other fruit contracts remain in place, ensuring continuity in the maison’s range. Long-time winemaker Eric Germain, who has worked alongside Girardin for ten years, remains at the helm. So far, it looks like a little has changed, but it is early days so we will see. Germain told me the 2010s were harvested beginning on September 5. The premier and grand crus spent 18 months in oak (20% new), followed by two months in steel before being bottled in April and May 2012. As I wrote last year, the Girardin wines have undergone a pretty dramatic stylistic shift over the last few years. Today, the wines are made in a brighter, more focused style with less of the overt richness and oak influence the winemaking team believes was contributing to the premature evolution of the wines. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802