From the lightest, sandiest soils in the Gras Chateauneuf stable, the 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Saintes Vierges is a blend of 80% Grenache, 18% Mourvèdre and 2% Cousoise. Befitting its origins, it's the most perfumed of the three wines this year, with floral, rose-like notes, a veritable potpourri of spice and herb shadings and a vibrant core of red berries. It's labeled (like the others) at 14% alcohol but feels lighter on the palate, soaring in silky arches of intermingled red berries and delicate tannins, then lingering elegantly on the finish.

The 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Saintes Vierges is a blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Counoise grown on light, sandy soils. Yet it's full-bodied and intense, almost creamy in texture, perhaps the most powerful of the four 2017s. Raspberries and cherries combine with Mediterranean herbs and hints of cinnamon, allspice, clove and star anise in a wine that shows remarkable balance and elegance despite the richness. It should drink well for at least a decade and a half.

The 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Saintes Vierges is the most flattering of Santa Duc's current releases, offering lushness and generosity on the palate, notes of cherries and licorice, creamy-supple tannins and a mouthwatering finish. It's a blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Counoise.

Made from 90% Grenache, 9% Mourvèdre and a splash of Counoise, aged all in foudre, 2014 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Saintes Vierges offers more dark fruit, leather, earth and roasted garrigue to go with medium to full-bodied, focused, streamlined style on the palate. Drink this pure, elegant and classy 2014 over the coming 6-8 years.