More Mourvedre-dominated, the 2009 Cotes du Rhone Luc “A” offers up notes of fresh mushrooms, damp earth, forest floor and blue as well as red fruits. This is a more controversial wine given its rustic, animal-like characteristics. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. Importers: David Bowler Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 807-1680; and Vineyard Research, Lunenberg, MA; tel (978) 582-7215