Jaboulet's 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape is one of their better examples over recent vintages. It is very Provencal with its notes of lavender, ground pepper, and herbes de Provence. This medium to full-bodied, spicy 2001 exhibits abundant quantities of kirsch in addition to an open-knit expansiveness. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

While pleasant and soft, with good purity and roundness, the 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape is monolithic. It will last for 7-8 years. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

The 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape (a blend of 80% Grenache and the rest Syrah and Cinsault) exhibits an evolved dark plum/garnet color, soft, ripe berry and kirsch liqueur notes, good pepper and spice, medium to full body, and a straightforward, easy-going finish. It should drink well for 7-8 years. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Long-time readers may know how spectacular Jaboulet's Chateauneufs were in the fifties and sixties. The 1957, 1961, and 1967 were prototypical expressions of the full-bodied, unctuous style of Chateauneuf du Pape that could be drunk young, yet was capable of lasting and improving for 15-20 years. For whatever reason, Jaboulet lightened the style of Chateauneuf in the seventies and eighties. Starting with the 1988 vintage, there has clearly been a return to the richer, more massive style that brought Jaboulet so much fame. The 1990 Chateauneuf du Pape, a 65% Grenache/35% Syrah blend, with 14% natural alcohol, reveals an impressive dark ruby/purple color, a big, spicy, earthy, jammy nose, deep, unctuous, full-bodied flavors, and a dense, long, moderately tannic finish. Unevolved, young, and backward, this wine needs 2-3 years of cellaring. I envision it drinking well through the first decade of the next century. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Co., New York, NY.