There's not much Matassa 2009 El Sarrat because the diseased majority of this vineyard that was Syrah had to be ripped-out, so now it's pure Mourvedre. Roasted red meat seasoned with horseradish and bay acquire on the palate a tart, piquant edge suggesting more the skin and pit than the flesh of purple plum. Unfortunately, there is also gum-numbing tanninity on display as part of this wine's impressive tenacity. Ought one to try outlasting the tannin? I'm skeptical whether it's of the sort which will cooperate in that enterprise, but this will certainly have some uses even in its youth, especially with wines that would benefit from a meat-tenderizing and contrasting influence at table. Tom Lubbe - for much more about whose work, consult my report in issue 183 - continues to experiment and fine tune, and there are some new cuvees and ideas here since I last visited. Speaking of which, beginning with 2011, Lubbe will have some old and impeccably cared-for foudres to utilize, as he was able to pick them up from Weingut Georg Breuer in Rudesheim whose cellar renovations were incompatible with their largest barrels. (Pity the freight company tasked with trucking them up to Calce!) I quizzed Lubbe this year about his reliance on so little sulfur; and he sought to assure me that "'tis enough, 'twill serve." But he also noted that contrary to widespread practice among advocates of low sulfur, he applies his sole dosage not at bottling, but rather right after the wine comes out of malo, so as to shock it only once; to have longer to observe the emergence of any potential problems; and above all because he believes that this is the most vulnerable moment in a wine's elevage, and hence the point, if any, at which it requires sulfuring. Lubbe notes that despite the drought in 2008, his vines produced a larger crop (relatively speaking!) than in other (warmer) recent vintages. He shares an opinion I heard from quite a few growers in the wake of recent experience that ultimately it's heat, not drought, that by promoting shut-down wreaks mischief with quality. (Incidentally, New Zealand-born Sam Harrop M.W. - known inter alia for his work in the Loire - is now no longer a partner in Matassa.)Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191

The Syrah and Mourvedre Matassa 2008 El Serrat is redolent of diverse black fruits and pungent herbs, but very tight and tart on the palate, with a bitter point of green nuttiness. Still, there is admirable finishing juiciness and lift for the vintage. This may loosen up a bit and become more expressive over the next several years. Lubbe points out that it's the sort of wine that in his experience really suffers an irreversible hardening if filtered. Tom Lubbe - for much more about whose work, consult my report in issue 183 - continues to experiment and fine tune, and there are some new cuvees and ideas here since I last visited. Speaking of which, beginning with 2011, Lubbe will have some old and impeccably cared-for foudres to utilize, as he was able to pick them up from Weingut Georg Breuer in Rudesheim whose cellar renovations were incompatible with their largest barrels. (Pity the freight company tasked with trucking them up to Calce!) I quizzed Lubbe this year about his reliance on so little sulfur; and he sought to assure me that "'tis enough, 'twill serve." But he also noted that contrary to widespread practice among advocates of low sulfur, he applies his sole dosage not at bottling, but rather right after the wine comes out of malo, so as to shock it only once; to have longer to observe the emergence of any potential problems; and above all because he believes that this is the most vulnerable moment in a wine's elevage, and hence the point, if any, at which it requires sulfuring. Lubbe notes that despite the drought in 2008, his vines produced a larger crop (relatively speaking!) than in other (warmer) recent vintages. He shares an opinion I heard from quite a few growers in the wake of recent experience that ultimately it's heat, not drought, that by promoting shut-down wreaks mischief with quality. (Incidentally, New Zealand-born Sam Harrop M.W. - known inter alia for his work in the Loire - is now no longer a partner in Matassa.)Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191

Mastassa's 2007 El Sarrat - half each Syrah and Mourvedre loves Mourvedre, and just bottled when I tasted it - continues in the bright, tart vein established by the other Matassa reds. Cherry, plum, bay leaf, beef blood, and wood smoke in the nose usher in a palate whose soothing textural polish and underlying sense of stuffing nicely balance its extreme fresh-fruit brightness. This finishes with remarkable sheer refreshment, salinity, pungent smokiness, and vividly fresh fruit. It will be fascinating to watch it evolve, and although I confess to perplexity as to the destination, I am sure at least 5-6 years will be needed to get there. South African-born and -trained Tom Lubbe arrived to do a stint at Gerard Gauby and fell in love with Roussillon - and with his wife (and Gauby's daughter) Nathalie. In 2001, the couple established their decidedly low-tech domaine. (Sam Harrop - a New Zealand-trained oenological consultant and M.W. well-known for his work on the Loire - is the third, largely hands-off partner in this venture.) Lubbe's biodynamic methods and experimental spirit are in the Gauby mode, but the vinous results are utterly unique, with more than two-thirds of production consisting of distinctively delicious whites. Virtually all of Lubbe's wines stay below 13% alcohol. They also keep quite low pHs, thanks, Lubbe avers, to his care and rejuvenation of the soil. He says he took it as a great compliment when he was falsely accused of having acidified his 2003s! (Incidentally, Lubbe has begun a joint project with Domaine de Majas in cool, high-elevation Caudies de Fenouilledes under the label -Three Trees.- The three wines - designed to sell at a very modest price - looked promising early-on though very bright and, I thought, in need of settling down. Hopefully they will arrive in the U.S. market in time to be reviewed in our August -values- issue.)Importer: Ibanez Pleven Offerings, New York, NY; tel. (917) 613 1793.

Fresh cherry and purple plum wreathed in wood smoke in the nose of Mastassa's 2006 El Sarrat lead to a tart palate impression to which bitter citrus oil and cherry pit notes and persistent salinity lend an additional sense of invigoration. A palpable sense of extract helps buffer the wine's tartness, and its tannins are remarkably refined for a youthful and rather spare wine from these two grapes. As with so many of the reds here, this singular, striking wine will certainly hold for some years, but I don't think this is either intended to or will give up its rather brash personality and almost white wine-like sense of fresh fruit acids. An inaugural cuvee of Grenache with 15% Cabernet Sauvignon called Voodoo - intended to retail for around $130 - was not very forthcoming on the occasion of my visit, and I prefer to withhold judgment on a wine which had just been bottled but - in Lubbe's words, -will not be released for a while-.South African-born and -trained Tom Lubbe arrived to do a stint at Gerard Gauby and fell in love with Roussillon - and with his wife (and Gauby's daughter) Nathalie. In 2001, the couple established their decidedly low-tech domaine. (Sam Harrop - a New Zealand-trained oenological consultant and M.W. well-known for his work on the Loire - is the third, largely hands-off partner in this venture.) Lubbe's biodynamic methods and experimental spirit are in the Gauby mode, but the vinous results are utterly unique, with more than two-thirds of production consisting of distinctively delicious whites. Virtually all of Lubbe's wines stay below 13% alcohol. They also keep quite low pHs, thanks, Lubbe avers, to his care and rejuvenation of the soil. He says he took it as a great compliment when he was falsely accused of having acidified his 2003s! (Incidentally, Lubbe has begun a joint project with Domaine de Majas in cool, high-elevation Caudies de Fenouilledes under the label -Three Trees.- The three wines - designed to sell at a very modest price - looked promising early-on though very bright and, I thought, in need of settling down. Hopefully they will arrive in the U.S. market in time to be reviewed in our August -values- issue.)Importer: Ibanez Pleven Offerings, New York, NY; tel. (917) 613 1793.