The 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cherbaudes is the most intensely spiced of the 1er Crus from Gevrey. Black cherries, plums, menthol, spices and licorice are some of the notes that flesh out on the finish. The Cherbaudes has great mid-palate pliancy and depth all the way through to the finish. Here it is the purity and vibrancy of the fruit that speaks most eloquently. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2030. The 2010 vintage was not especially kind to Louis Boillot. The December 2009 frost wiped out the vineyard Boillot used for his Bourgogne, so naturally that wine was not made. The Fixin yields were tiny (just one barrel) and that wine was blended into the Cote de Nuits Villages. Overall yields were down 40-50%, although some parcels were hit even harder. The Caillerets, Croix Noires and Cherbaudes were down 50% and the Pommard was down 60%. The harvest started on September 22 and lasted about a week. The wines were aged in 25-30% new oak. Malos were very slow and were not finished until September 2011, quite late even by standards of the year. On a much more positive note, the wines themselves are fabulous and deserve serious attention. Unfortunately, the 2010 Pommard Les Croix Noires and Chambolle-Musigny Beaux Bruns were too reduced to evaluate, so I will have to wait for another opportunity to taste those wines. I will report on the 2009s in the April issue.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cherbaudes, from vines that are nearly 90 years old, presents a rich core of fruit. This shows terrific vibrancy and focus, with notable juiciness in the fruit and fine overall balance. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. Louis Boillot remarked that he and his wife Ghislaine Barthod were the first to harvest in 2009, but the last in 2008. In 2009 Boillot was concerned with losing the singular expression of site, hence his decision to pick on the early side. The 2009s were made from 100% destemmed fruit, as is the custom here. New oak reached a maximum of 25-30%. Boillot is among the growers who prefers the 2008s to the 2009s, which he describes as more faithful and transparent to site.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

Boillot’s 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cherbaudes presents a gorgeous image of the vintage. A beautifully expressive, well delineated bouquet redolent of sweet herbs, spices, flowers and dark fruit wafts from the glass. The wine is at times weightless, while at others it comes across as more powerful. A focused, energetic finish rounds things out in style. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2033. Louis Boillot remarked that he and his wife Ghislaine Barthod were the first to harvest in 2009, but the last in 2008. In 2009 Boillot was concerned with losing the singular expression of site, hence his decision to pick on the early side. The 2009s were made from 100% destemmed fruit, as is the custom here. New oak reached a maximum of 25-30%. Boillot is among the growers who prefers the 2008s to the 2009s, which he describes as more faithful and transparent to site.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990