The 2019 Mercurey 1er Cru Clos des Barraults Blanc is a serious, structured wine, unwinding in the glass with notes of pear, confit citrus, almonds and apricot. Medium to full-bodied, layered and muscular, it's lively and concentrated, with real depth at the core and a long, saline finish. This has turned out brilliantly and will reward patience.

Another magical wine from Lorenzon is the 2018 Mercurey 1er Cru Clos des Barraults Blanc, a striking wine that wafts from the glass with aromas of orange blossom, honeycomb and crisp yellow orchard fruit mingled with bright top notes of citrus zest and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, it's satiny and enveloping, with striking concentration without weight and an incisive spine of animating acidity that carries through the long, penetrating finish.

From a parcel planted 70 years ago, Lorenzon's 2017 Mercurey 1er Cru Clos des Barraults Blanc was also showing brilliantly, opening in the glass with aromas of honeyed orchard fruit, mirabelle plum and linden. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny and seamless, with an enveloping and concentrated core underpinned by a bright spine of acidity and concluding with a precise, mineral finish.

From 70-year-old vines, Lorenzon's 2016 Mercurey 1er Cru Clos des Barraults Blanc is superb, unfurling in the glass with notes of mirabelle plum, fresh peach and white flowers. On the palate, it's full-bodied, tensile and mineral, with amazing depth and dimension; tight-knit at the core but exploding on the expressive, mouthwatering finish. It's a Mercurey blanc that brooks no argument.

Showing beautifully, the 2013 Mercurey 1er Cru Clos des Barraults Blanc delivers aromas of sweet orchard fruit, orange oil and white flowers, complemented by hints of iodine and praline. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and charming, it's a layered, lively wine, with tangy acids and a saline finish. It's drinking very well today.