Domaine Lignier-Michelot Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France

里涅·米謝露酒莊洛奇園（莫雷-圣丹尼特級園）干紅葡萄酒

點擊次數：8893

The 2015 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru comes from 0.30-hectare in the Montluisants area supplemented by some purchased fruit from 72-year-old vines in the lieu-dit Les Chenevrières. It has a very pure and powerful bouquet with layers of small dark cherries, blueberry and violet aromas, a little richness of the growing season showing through via a touch of glycerin. The palate is medium-bodied with a bit if sinew on the entry. This dovetails into a structured mid-palate with a pinch of white pepper lingering on the finish that has a real peacock's tail of flavors, reinforcing its grand crus pedigree (just in case.) This is a sublime expression of the vineyard from Virgile Lignier.

The 2014 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is 50% whole cluster fruit. It has a denser and more opaque bouquet compared to the 2015 Clos Saint Denis -- blueberry and cassis fruit, all with a tight leash on. The palate is medium-bodied with fine but firm tannin on the entry; there is blackberry and boysenberry, and plenty of salinity here with a mineral-driven finish that leaves the tongue a tingling long after it has departed. This is very serious and deserves a few years in the cellar.

Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting in Beaune, the 2013 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru from Virgile Lignier has a vivid bouquet with animated blackberry and raspberry preserve aromas, fine mineralité and well integrated oak. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red cherries and raspberry, sweet tannin, fine acidity and a juicy, quite structured finish with a generous pinch of white pepper spicing things up. This is a resounding success. Tasted September 2016.

The 2012 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is 50% whole cluster and 50% new oak and it comes from the domaine’s own vines supplemented by purchased fruit. It has a very elegant bouquet that is quite Vosne-like in style: red berries, minerals and dried petals. The palate is medium-bodied with a dense, solid opening. There is impressive matiere here: a firm grip and equipped with a composed yet weighty finish that will require 5-6 years to fully mature. Good potential. My second visit to see Virgile Lignier, cousin of Laurent Lignier at Domaine Hubert Lignier, did not go to plan. With the winery seemingly empty, I wondered whether he had forgotten our rendezvous. I soon discovered that the original domaine is tucked away within the village of Morey Saint Denis, and that like many, expansion has meant that they had to move elsewhere to make their wines. Virgile finally appeared driving a forklift truck loading wines destined for my homeland (incidentally I wonder how many Bordeaux proprietors have such a license?) Still, we eventually sat down to taste his 2012s that had been racked mid-September and were now in tank. I have to admit, having heard so many bon mots about Lignier-Michelot, the 2011s had not swept me off my feet back last July, though I could see the potential. However, the 2012s are a different matter and showed more complexity and nuance. The harvest here commenced a little later than others on 27 September, though not as tardy as Laurent Ponsot up the road.