The 2010 Vacqueyras St.-Roch reveals some pronounced herbaceousness intermixed with notes of kirsch and meaty mushrooms. A blend of 65% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 5% Mourvedre from 30-year-old vines, and aged totally in tank, it is a medium-bodied, peppery, herbal effort that no doubt will be controversial. Importers: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228; Arborway Imports, Lexington, MA; tel. (781) 863-1753; and Riservati, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 623-5758

The 2007 Vacqueyras Saint-Roch is 70% Grenache, 25% Syrah, and 5% Mourvedre, aged traditionally for ten months in stainless steel followed by almost a year in concrete tanks before bottling. This full-bodied wine seems more forward and precocious than the Templiers, but it displays plenty of roasted Provencal herbs, pepper, lavender, black currant and blackberry fruit. It is a thick, juicy, succulent style of wine to drink over the next 5-7 years. (Interestingly, the producer told me that the estate believes that if people want to drink – as the French say – “sur le fruit,” they should drink this wine in the first 3-4 years, but those who want more complexity and animal notes should conserve it for 8-10 years.) One of the best estates of Vacqueyras, all three cuvees here are noteworthy and, given not only the greatness of the vintage, but the reasonable pricing, definitely worth considering. Importers: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228; Arborway Imports, Lexington, MA; tel. (781) 863-1753; and Riservati, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 623-5758

The 2006 Vacqueyras St.-Roch, a blend of 70% Grenache, 25% Syrah, and 5% Mourvedre, exhibits a soft, straightforward, richly fruity personality. Although not complex, it is a pleasant Vacqueyras to enjoy over the next 2-3 years. One of Vacqueyras- most consistent producers of high quality wine is the Archimbaud-Vache family. Importers: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228; Arborway Imports, Lexington, MA; tel. (781) 863-1753; and Riservati, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 623-5758

The deep plum/purple-colored 2004 Vacqueyras Cuvee Saint-Roche offers up sweet aromas of fruitcake, truffles, incense, and black tea. Its lovely fruit, medium body, sweet tannin, and decent acidity suggest it will provide pleasure over the next 3-4 years. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228

The 2001 Vacqueyras St.-Roche possesses punch and power in addition to herbaceous licorice and kirsch liqueur notes. It’s an elegant, light to medium-bodied Vacqueyras for current consumption. No known American importer.