The 1998 Vacqueyras Cuvee Speciale is a serious as well as expensive offering. There is tannin and the wine is structured. For now, it plays it close to the vest with plenty of herb-tinged, smoky, kirsch liqueur aromatics and flavors. Nevertheless, it is rich, medium to full-bodied, moderately tannic, and impressively endowed. It should drink well for 7-8 years. ERIC SOLOMON, EUROPEAN CELLARS, 236 West 27 St., Room 801, New York, NY 10001; tel. (212) 924-4949; fax (212) 924-0567