Starts with cotton candy, brown sugar and apple aromas. But it’s not rich, overripe or even close to late-harvest in style. Just the opposite: It’s lean in the mouth, with apple, papaya and gooseberry flavors. Banana and melon notes along with nice acids mark the finish.——M.S.(10/1/2003)—— 87

The 1999 Pinot Blanc, a good value, offers tangy, demure aromas of citrus fruits. On the palate, this wine is light-bodied and has nice grip to its Riesling-like herbal tea-flavors. Drink this unassuming thirst-quencher over the next 18 months. Importer: Paterno Imports, Chicago, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900