The 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Macherelles reveals aromas of pear, orange oil, white flowers, nutmeg, beeswax and peach. Medium to full-bodied, rich and layered, it's a fleshy, generous wine with good energy and precision, even if it can't match the tension and intensity of the top Saint-Aubin cuvées at this address.

Opening in the glass with notes of smoky stone fruit, pear, iodine and fresh bread, the 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Macherelles is medium to full-bodied, chalky and structured, with lively acids and an abundance of dry extract. A little inscrutable due to suspended lees, it's nevertheless obviously promising.

The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Macherelles wafts from the glass with notes of orange oil, clear honey, white peach and spring flowers. Medium to full-bodied, it's satiny and precise, with fine depth at the core and a saline finish.

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Macherelles offers up a lovely bouquet of crisp green apple, waxy citrus rind and white flowers. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied with a riper, fleshier and somewhat more open-knit profile than the Chassagne Chaumées, though with similarly tangy acids and a saline, mineral finish. This will be one of the more accessible of Lamy's 2017s.

The 2015 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Macherelles, from decomposed limestone where vines are usually less stressed than elsewhere, has a reserved but clean and precise bouquet that develops subtle floral scents with aeration. The palate is crisp on the entry with fresh Granny Smith apples and pear, very harmonious in the mouth with a marine influence on the finish that perhaps just lacks a little persistence. That should develop by the time it is in bottle. This might actually pip Jacques Carillon's own Chassagne-Montrachet Macherelles this year. Let's see.